Ishkashim district
The history of Ishkashim district is connected to the ancient Silk Road, the ancient trade route was an open trade from 130 B.C.E. until 1453 C.E. Experiencing the ancient sites of the Silk Road is still possible nowadays. The Silk Road went through the Wakhan corridor in Ishkashim district of GBAO. This is the ancient trade route that connected Wakhan corridor from China and all the way to the ancient Rome.
The main tourism itinerary in the region goes through the Wakhan Corridor. There are ancient fortresses, “Qah-Qaha” “Yamchun” “Abreshim qala”, that date back from 3rdto 2nd century BCE. Besides, there is Budhist Monastery that was used by Budhist monks in Vrang village. There are also old petroglyphs (engraved images) in Langar village, and it is a nice 30-minute hike to reach them.
Another popular place in Ishakshim is Kuhi Lal. This historic mine is amongst the ancient of the world and is known as “Rubies” that looks like “pale roe”-tinted spinel”. Queen Elizabeth’s crown with a ruby was brought form Ishakashim from Kuhi Lal.
Among the best hotspring of the region are seen here in Ishkashim. The hot spring of “Garm Chashma’ is good for different kinds of deceases and basically it is effective for skin deceases. The hotspring of “Avj” is good for eyes. It is believed that the hotspring of “Bibi Fatima” is improving women fertility and it is also good for urological and gynecological illnesses.
People of Ishkashim have their own language -Wakhi language. Interestingly “ Ryn ” language is spoken is Ryn village, which is close to the center of Ishkashim. This language is completely different, and it is understood and spoken in one village only.
In the village of Yamg, there is a museum of Sufi-Muborakqadam (see picture1). Sufi Muborakqadam or in other words ““Muboraki Wakhoni” was an astronomer, musician, and philosopher. The museum was built by the grandchildren of Sufi Muborakqadam who nowadays explain locals as well as tourists about the talents and prides of their great grandfather. Outside of the museum there is a Solar Calendar that define the coming of “Navruz” holiday. The people of the area gather around the calendar during Navruz holiday, and they celebrate it with dance and songs.
There is also a nice trekking from Zong or Langar village that leads all the way to the basecamp of Peak Engels. Many mountaineers go further up the valley to the glacier and some others summit Peak Engels.
Roshtqala has a unique diversity of people living in the area that cannot be found anywhere else. There are Shughni, Wakhi, Darvazi, Munjani, Chatrali, Badakhi, Rushani and Kalash people. Kalash people are basically living in Pakistan, and they are considered the most loyal army of Alexander the Great. These people in Tajikistan are found in Roshtqala in Tusyan village only and they are bright and have blue eyes.
Another thing that is important to note is that the four “Ismaili dais” came at 15th century with the mission of spreading Islam in the region. They are “Shoi Malang”, “Shoi Khomush”, “Shoi Khoshon, and “Shoi Burhon” and they came from Iran from Sabzvor area. They visited the area after the Pir Nasiri Khushrav. The rest place of “Shoi Burhon” is in Roshtqala district of Tusyon village. There are also some shrines and streams in Roshtqala district that are associated with the name of “Shoi Burhon”. The stream is called “Shoi Burkhon Weth” that provides 80-90 % of the population in Tusyan.
Roshtqala district was used to be a center of agriculture, hence it was the wealthiest valley in comparison with other areas of GBAO. This was due to the warm climate conditions. Roshtqala does not have any neighboring borders with other countries. Also, another interesting thing about Roshtqala is that the road is not complicated in comparison with Ghund valley. During the wintertime the further the road goes up the valley, the less snow is experienced. Roshtqala district is also considered as an alternative way to China.
The people of Rohstqala speak Shughnan language with Shokhdara dialect. Shughnani language is preserved well in this area, yet urbanization is seen as the main threat to the language and its dialect. Also, the famous “Madokhons” praising God reciters such as “Mumin”, “Isrib”, and “Shohmamad” come from Roshtqala. Nodir Shambezoda is one of the first writers who created alphabets and wrote poems in Shughnan language, who also comes from that area.
The last governor of the region, Azizkhan comes from Roshtqala district of Sindev village. He was a very wise and honest person. He took part in major discussions and solved many controversies. Azizkhan was an initiator in protecting the area from the Bukhara’s oppression and he took an active part in appealing to the Tsarist Russia.
Roshtqala district is popular for tourists with its cross valley trekking in the region. Not far from Khorog there is a nice trekking in Tusyon village of Roshtqala that leads to two different valleys. One way leads to Garmchashma in Ishkashim district and the other one leads to Vezdara village of Roshtqala district. Besides, there is another five days beautiful trekking from Bathomdara (Roshtqala district) to Darshai village (Ishkashim district). Among the common trekking for tourist is the 3 to 4 days trekking from the last villages of Roshtqala, Javshangoz or Rubot through the Vrang pass (5100m) to Vrang village in Ishkashim district.
Shughnan is well known for its narrative; it is noted in the book of Nasiri Khusrav who visited and described the area and its people. People of this area associate many perspectives and sites with Pir Nosiri Khusrav. For instance, “Pir Shonosir Chashma” is very famous among local people. Most of the time people of the region do not miss the opportunity to pass by the place and drink the water from the cold spring. Interestingly, the water from the spring is very cold in the summer and does not freeze during the wintertime. There is a small museum that is built by the people for the sake of Nasiri Khusrav that is close to the spring and open for visitors.
In addition to that, there is “Didor”site not far from the spring of Nasiri Khusrav and it is on the right side of the road. This site is very special for Ismailis of Badakhshan since this is the place where people met their Imam of the time for the first time in the history of Badakhan in 1994. Didor happened several times at the site.
The Pamir highway, M41 goes through the Shughnan district and is famous among foreigners. Many adventurous travelers such as cyclists and motorcyclists go through this high-altitude highway. There is a great opportunity for rock climbing in Ghund valley. There is also nice trekking in Ghund valley of Rivak dara, a beautiful valley that goes all the way to Roshqala district. Bachor village is also popular among tourists. It is possible to do a loop around the valley with experiencing beautiful lakes around. The valley can also lead to Bartang valley of Rushan district.
Finally, there is a Jelondi hotspring in Shughnan district. People from all over the country come for a visit and treatment to the spring. The hot spring is useful for all kinds of deceases and basically it is good for women’s health.
Rushan district is situated at the west-central area of GBAO with the administrative center of Vomar that is 65 km from Khorog. People of Rushan have their own dialect. Since the Soviet time Rushan have been famous with its art and culture. People of Rushan were able to preserve their tradition over the rapidly changing years and based on this they have played a vital role not only in the culture of Badakhshan, but also in the culture of Tajikistan. Among the famous national musicians are Muboraksho and Daler Nazarov come from Rushan. The father of Daler Nazarov was the minister of culture.
As opposed to other areas of GBAO, Rushan has extended lands. Due to lower altitude the land of the area is more fertile. Thus, the agriculture of the area is more developed. There are many small villages in Rushan, but they are spread. This has some drawbacks in terms of access to the market and more important is an access to schools. For instance, several villages have one school, and this is a long travel distances for kids. This issue has been raised and considered to move to a different area, however people are afraid of losing their specific identity and they are unwilling to leave their places.
There are also ancient cultural and historical sites in the center of Rushan in Vamar. The “Vamar Qala” is an old fortress that was used as fortification against enemies. This fortress is also interesting for foreigners, but it has been renovated in appropriate way by locals. Besides, Bartang valley itself is another main attraction of Rushan district.
Bartang valley is very famous among foreign visitors. There are all different kinds of outdoor activities, starting from soft hiking to difficult trekking. Jizev village in Bartang valley is beautiful several days hiking with small and beautiful lakes around the village (see picture2). In addition to that, there are homestays that can accommodate many tourists in a day.
Among the famous trekking in Bartang valley is the one to Sarez lake or in other words it is called “Sleeping Dragon” since it was formed as a result of an earthquake. For foreign visitors it is difficult to go to Sarez because a special permit is necessary for the lake. There are two ways to get to there. The first one is the common route form the village of Barchidev of Bartang village, and the other one is from Ghund valley that takes longer (five days) to come down to Sarez. Besides, there is another trekking in Bartang valley from Pasor village to Grum Grizhimaylo – the second highest glacier in the country. It is a four-day trekking to the beautiful valley.
In the upper Bartang of Rushan district, it is possible to see women carrying woods on their back or on donkeys. Women and men are going up the valley to collect woods and this can be experienced in the remote area of Bartang valley. There are still electricity issues in some parts of the valley, thus people have to make fire for tea and food.
Murghab district is mostly deserted area with harsh living conditions. People of this area are living at the altitude of more than 4000 m above sea level. Since nothing grows in Murghab area the only source of income for the local people is their livestock. The temperatures in Murghab can get -30-degree calcium. Bulunkul village is considered as the coldest place in Tajikistan and during the winter the temperatures can even get to-50-degree calcium.
Majority of population of in Murghab district are Kyrgyz people with Tajik citizenship. During the summertime Kyrgyz people that are living in the valleys stay in their yurts. Kyrgyz yurts are also used as accommodation for foreign visitors since many tourists wish to experience staying in yurts.
The harsh climate and living condition make life difficult in Murghab; nevertheless, the landscape of Murghab area is stunning. There are the most beautiful lakes in the area. Karakul lake is one of the biggest lakes in Tajikistan. Annually, in September a festival of Roof of the World Regatta is conducted at Karakul Lake, (see picture3) where foreigners come for sailing. Also, there is Yashikul lake that is close to Bulunkul village. The lake provides electricity for the people of the region. It is also famous among foreigners for its beaty, tourists hike along the lake all the way to Shughnan district with beautiful other small lakes around the area.
Murghab area is also rich with its wildlife. There are Marco-Polo sheep, mountain goats, snow leopard that can be observed in the valley. The rangers of the National Park are organizing tours for tourists to enable them to see the wildlife.
The newly developed activities are organized to support local people for making additional income. This is basically Yak Safari riding on yaks in Alichur village and other places of Murghab. There is also camel safari in Rangkul village in more Eastern part of Murghab.
A point where the Panj River changes its course, is the Vanj Valley, an attractive space that sprawls out
beneath the Pamir Mountains. Vanj Valley which overlooks Afghanistan, was a key location in the 19th
century Great Game, the spying match between the Russian Empire and British India.
Vanj Valley is known less about actual modern landmarks and more about the incredible natural scenery.
It is considered as a host of extraordinary jeep rides, rock climbing, high-altitude hikes, glacier treks,
adventures mountanous hikes.
Forming part of the glorious ‘Roof of the World’, the Pamir Mountains are filled with an impressive
collection of sky-scraping glaciers. While the largest glacier on Earth is hands down the Lambert-Fisher
Glacier in Antarctica, the 70-plus-kilometer Fedchenko Glacier right here in Tajikistan is the longest
outside of Antarctica and the Arctic
Vanj Valley offers trekking around the Poi Mazar and Ismoli Somoni Peak, the highest point
in Tajikistan. As the Fedchenko Glacier lies within Tajik National Park, part of the West-central Gorno-
Badakhshan region, permits are required if you’re looking to scale the surrounding peaks.
Darvaz
QAL’AI KHUMB or Darvaz is a remote hault, that is popular for travelers making the spectacular
overland trip between Kulab and Khorog.
Darvaz is a meeting point where the Southern Pamir Highway Route coming from Kulob and Shurobod
Pass meets the inducing Northern Pamir Highway Route that comes down from Tavildara and over
Saghridasht pass before the highway continues to Khorog alongside with Afganistan border.
Yoged is the only village in Darvaz district of GBAO of Tajikistan, where the most residents profess
Ismaili Shia Islam, unlike their neighbors who are Sunnis. Yoged has about 1,200 residents and is
situated north of Shkev .
Yoged village resembles a ‘religious island’ around which Sunni Muslims live.
Yoged village is located 280 km east of Dushanbe and 270 km north of Khorog, on the border with
Afghanistan. The distance to the district center – Qal’ai Khumb is 28 km.
It is a tiny village in the mid of mountains, has a secondary school, a cultural center, two libraries, a
cinema, a healthcare center, two shops, a gym, a small power plant and a border post. This village is
known in Darvaz for its sportsmen – wrestlers, famous artisans, singers, scientists, and special traditions,
in particular, preserved rituals of Navruz celebration. In addition, Yoged is one of Darvaz villages where
most girls have higher education. This is a rare case for the rural Tajikistan.
The main attractions here; is Yoged Museum and holy shrines of Ostoni Khoja Chiltan, Ostoni Khuja
Khizar, Ostoni Khoja Nazar and Ostoni Shah Owliyo.